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Below are instructions for making (your choice) a baby carriage or crib cover (or both) using the patchwork technique called ‘Log Cabin’.
Good work. Some basic rules before starting any patchwork, in order to get the best results.
Fabric care Fabrics should be washed before use in hot water to see if they lose color; if so, soak them for an hour in cold water with the addition of white wine vinegar (the proportion is two parts water to one part vinegar). Rinse in warm water and if any fabric still loses color remove it, it may later ruin the whole work. We then iron carefully to remove any creases from the wash. The fabric must first be squared, an operation that is done on the fabric folded into 2 or 4 parts, selvedge to selvedge. We align the fabric thus folded on any of the rows of the anti-cut board and place the square along the right edge of the fabric, trying to remove as little fabric as possible. We always cut by rotating the blade from the bottom up (moving the cutter away from us) and never in a seated position; we would not be able to put enough pressure on the square to get a clean, precise cut. We slide our hand on the square upward, accompanying the cutting of the fabric to prevent the square itself from moving as the blade passes, a problem that easily occurs when using the long square.
Needles Machine sewing needles are those for normal sewing (size 80/90), for machine quilting we have to use special needles called “quilting needles” (130/705 h-q) from Schmetz, for hand quilting we use special short quilting needles with sizes No. 10 to No. 12 to start with, with practice we will use smaller and smaller needles. Patchwork pins are recommended, as they are longer and thinner and do not create problems for the sewing machine. Aged effect To age fabrics, soak them in a pot where we have boiled water with tea (5-6 sachets per liter) leaving them to soak for about 30 minutes, then rinse in cold water.
Quilt components The quilt is made from a top part called “top” or “patchwork,” the inner part (batting) called “batting,” and the back part “backing.”.
Once the quilt is assembled, it is stitched together both to hold the three components (top, batting, and backing) together and to embellish it perhaps with designs as desired. Each section of the many of which the “top” is composed is called a “block.”.
The margin for seams must be strictly 6 mm and and you must iron hems in the direction of the darker fabric unless otherwise directed. We do not use steam because it deforms the fabric.
Pay attention to the direction we have given to the ironing because when we go to join the various sections or blocks the hems must be opposite, that is, in the various intersections they must be folded opposite to each other, not on the same side, precisely to avoid accumulations of fabric that are difficult later to quilt. When assembling the various pieces or blocks, we can reverse the direction of the hems if they are not opposite, taking care then to iron in the new direction. Needless to reiterate, precision in quilting is essential, so utmost attention to cutting, stitching and ironing.
Each piece of the “top” is to be overlapped with another right on right of the fabric and sewn, leaving a 6 mm margin from the seam.
To make the work easier, there are accessory feet specifically for quilting, or a homemade solution is to apply tape, like the kind painters use, to the needle plate of the sewing machine so that you have a guide. Adjust the stitch length to 2.5 mm and remember to stop the stitch at the beginning and end of the seam (reverse button on mechanicals or stop-stitch button on computerizeds).
To avoid annoying shifting when joining “blocks” to each other, it is best to secure them with quilt pins. Stitching (quilting) is done after the work is completed before adding the outer border. It is usually done alongside or along the seams of the “top,” and the traditional technique is to do it by hand. If you are experienced with sewing machines you can have a similar effect with quilting stitches or simple machines with a slightly longer 3-3.5 mm stitch.
If desired, one can embellish the “patwork” with designs as desired, especially on the edges, using erasable pens to transfer the pattern from the quilt stencils to the fabric and then stitching on the traced design.
To stitch properly, it is necessary to make very small, uniform stitches, a skill that is acquired over time by using specific quilting needles.
It is preferable to use a loom without overstretching the area involved. On the other hand, if you want to do it without a loom take care that the fabric of the lower ’backing“ part is always stretched.
Finished stitching (by hand or with the sewing machine) even out the work (the three layers of the quilt should be even) .
Disc cutter The first thing we feel like telling you is BEWARE.
The cutter is very sharp and therefore dangerous and should be kept out of reach of children and inexperienced even adults. It should be used on a special anti-cutting base with rulers of various sizes that serve both as guides and to hold the fabric in place. It is preferable to do the work standing up so that everything is under control.
Before starting, cut the selvedge from the fabrics and Pay attention to accuracy in cutting and stitching Log Cabin cover for baby's baby carriage or crib
Cut out a small piece from each fabric dividing them between light = C and dark = S and numbering them like C1, C2, etc.
Cut 2.5 cm strips. For the center of each block, it is best to use a light color (white or ecru) different from the others. There are a total of 24 Log Cabin blocks. Cut a 2.5 x 34 cm strip for the center. The same from fabrics C1 and C3.
Sew one center strip to C1 and the other to C3 right sides together taking care to leave a 6 mm border. Iron the hem to the darker fabric. Using cutter and ruler cut the resulting 2 strips into 2.5 cm sections so you get 24 pieces. From C1 + S1 and from C3 + S3 cut 12 sections of 2.5 cm x the length of the center section. Sew at the sides as in Fig. 6 and iron outward. From C2 + S1and from C4 + S3 cut 12 sections of 2.5 cm.
Sew to the top and bottom as in fig. 7 . Iron. From C2 + S2 and from C4 + S4 cut 12 sections of 2.5 cm.
Sew at the sides as shown in fig. 8. Iron. From S2 and S4, cut 12 2.5 cm strips and sew to the bottom as per fig.
9. Iron Sew one block to the other making the light and dark sides match.
See fig. 10 Cut 2 strips 4 cm long for the length of the “top” from the inner edge fabric. Sew to the sides and iron outward. Cut 2 more strips and sew to the bottom and top sides. Iron.
Cut 2 strips of 8 cm for the middle edge and sew as done for the 1st. Cut 10 cm strips for the 3rd edge and 6 cm strips for the 4th.
Sew as above, and iron all hems on the outside. Cut the fabric for the reverse or “backing” 4-5 cm larger, for all 4 sides, than the “top” and lay it on the table with the right side facing the table and the reverse side facing themselves. Place the padding, eliminating wrinkles and curls. Lay the ”top” with the right side facing themselves, on the batting or “batting” and baste with very long stitches starting from the center toward the corners and to the sides. If you want to embellish the work, with a stencil and a quilting pencil bring the design back to the first edge or even the following ones as you like. Make stitches that cross the diagonal of the whole “top” making sure to cross the center of each “block” forming rhombuses and embellishing the work. The important thing is to always start from the center of the “top” continuing toward first the corners and then the sides. Mount the frame in the center and move it as needed.
When finished stitching even out the two layers (batting and backing) at the “top.”. Reinforced edging. Cut 2 strips 4 cm x the length of the “top” from the fabric of the 3rd border to anything else you like. Fold in half and iron to have a 2-ply border.
Sew to the sides leaving the open side towards the edge of the “top”. Cut 2 strips and sew to the other 2 sides. Turn the reinforced edge inside out and secure it by hand with hidden stitches. Your “Quilt” is finished, you may sign it as you see fit.
Caring for Your “Quilt”
Avoid exposing the “quilt to direct sunlight so as not to discolor the fabrics.
Hand wash or machine wash on delicate cycle, never dry clean. Needed for making “quilt” 85×100 cm approx. Fabric meters calculated on height of 110 cm.
20 cm x 4 light patterned 20 cm x 4 dark pattern 30 cm of a light pattern of your choice 50 cm of three contrasting patterns for borders 100 cm for reverse or “backing”. 110 cm of padding
schema-log-cabin to be printed
